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1175 Buford Highway. Suite 120
Suwanee, Georgia. 30024
www.goldsmithworks.com
770.831.1257 - 1.800.438.6894

Date/Report Number …..030114.WWIIJECCOM Item J.E. CALDWELL & Co CONCORD OFFICERS MILITARY WATCH
IMG_9752.JPG (46775 bytes)

Description of item: VINTAGE WWII I J.E. CALDWELL & Co CONCORD OFFICERS MILITARY WATCH WITH DOUBLE WATER PROOF" STEEL CASE HALL MARKED BY Taubert & Fils BORGEL FB KEY MAKERS OF PATEK & VACHERON WATCH CASES. W 28.5 X 36 MM WITH ORIGINAL PATENTED 1940 SPRING CLIP BRACELET CONDITION  NEAR  MINT.

.Estimated Retail Replacement Value $799.00


Reports are supplied at the request of the customer and it is for the customer's exclusive use. Reports express an opinion of the time of the examination of the jewelry. This report is for customers use only for the following two purposes, indicating estimated retail replacement value to obtain insurance coverage, or for the purpose of providing geological information. goldsmith Works does not guarantee that the appraisal valuation will result in a sale at the price. Estimated retail replacement value is arrived after analyses of what the approximate high retail cash asking price is for labor, materials, and design. These prices may be substantially higher than actual transaction or warranty with regards to any item described in the report, since jewelry grading is not an exact science, this  report represent the best opinion of the company. GoldSmith Works is in no case responsible for differences that occur by repeated grading by other experts in the field and/or use of other standards, norms, methods or criteria other than those used by GoldSmith Works. GoldSmith Works is expressly held harmless by customers including, but with out limitation for any claims or actions that may arise out of negligence in connection with the preparation of this laboratory report, or actions based upon the customer's use of the report. The information on the carat weight, clarity grade, color grade on the report is approximate due to the limitations in jewelry grading. The item was tested, graded, and examined under 10x magnification using the techniques and equipment available to GoldSmith Works, including fully corrected triplet loupe, binocular microscope, master color comparison guides, diamond color comparison tools, electronic carat balance, non-contact optical measuring device, and ancillary instruments necessary at the time of Exam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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IMG_9752.JPG (46775 bytes)

WWII
J.E. CALDWELL & Co
CONCORD
OFFICERS
MILITARY WATCH
WITH
DOUBLE "WATER PROOF" STEEL CASE
HALL MARKED
BY
Taubert & Fils
BORGEL FB KEY
MAKERS OF
PATEK & VACHERON
WATCH CASES
W
28.5 X 36 MM

WITH
ORIGINAL
PATENTED 1940
SPRING CLIP BRACELET


IMG_9738.JPG (37604 bytes)

CONCORD


wpe160.jpg (4019 bytes)

Founded in 1908 in Biel, Switzerland, CONCORD was created to design watches with the American market in mind
. Concord has made several innovations in its history such as being one of the first “private label” luxury watches to
incorporate precious metals and gems in its watches. It was also the first company to make a wristwatch made of coins.

IN 1945, U.S. PRESIDENT TRUMAN PRESENTED CONCORD CLOCKS TO
CHURCHILL & STALIN ON THE OCCASION OF THE POTSDAM PEACE CONFERENCE IN BERLIN.

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J. E. CALDWELL & CO.
Caldwell & Company

Trained as a silversmith in New York City, James E. Caldwell, worked for a short period of time on Maiden Lane, in New York City, before opening a small watchmaker's shop on Fifth and Chestnut Street in Philadelphia, sometime in the early 1830s. By 1839, James Emmott Caldwell began to supply wealthy Philadelphia's with stylish European jewelry, silver, and objets d'art. Caldwell’s business quickly flourished. Over several decades, the store changed locations and owners a handful of times. In 1868, the firm was officially dubbed J.E. Caldwell and Co. After fires ravaged the city in that same year, the store was rebuilt at 902 Chestnut Street. Towards the end of the nineteenth century, the firm began to create beautiful gem-set, hand fabricated Art Nouveau jewels. Its pieces are among the finest examples of American Art Nouveau jewelry; they feature finely chased surfaces, unusual gemstones, as well as typical Nouveau motifs: curvaceous women, vines, garlands, flowers, and insects.In 1916, J.E. Caldwell relocated to a more fashionable and affluent part of town, at the corner of Juniper and Chestnut Street.Throughout the 1920’s, the firm produced fine pieces of Art Deco jewelry for which it is still known. Since then, it has continued to offer high quality jewels according to the current styles. In 1953, under the direction of Aust´on Homer, who had become president of Caldwell's the previous year, the company began a branch store expansion, opening their second location in the Hotel Dupont in Wilmington, Delaware. Caldwell & Co. was purchased by Henry Birks & Sons, a Montreal-based jeweler and in August 1992, was acquired by Carlyle & Co., a family owned jewelry concern in Greensboro, North Carolina

TAUBERT & FILS

Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva based case makers and specialists in the manufacture
of high quality dirt and moisture-resistant cases. The company’s case stamp was F.B. within a cartouche.

1-A-KEY-FB-HALLMARK.JPG (5086 bytes)
Borgel's FB KEY Trade Mark

Francois Borgel  would set up shop in 1887 in Geneva, Switzerland. His registered trademark
["marque de fabrique"] was created using his initials [FB] with a Geneva key.

 

Borgel Marque Registration.jpg (14141 bytes)
REGISTRATION

In October of 1891, Francois would patent his famous and eponymous watch case design. His  
Swiss "Brevet" [Patent] was number 4001. Francois would also patent his design in England under Patent number 20,422.

Geneva Coat of Arms.jpg (20001 bytes)
GENEVA COAT ARMS

The Borgel case was an early attempt to make wrist watches resistant to dust and moisture. It had a one piece case
with no separate back opening. The movement was mounted in a threaded carrier ring attached to the bezel,
and this assembly screws into the one piece case from the front.

Borge-SIGNATURE.jpg (8285 bytes)

Though Longines, The International Watch Co. of Schaffhausen (IWC) , and other lesser known Swiss watch manufacturers were early adopters
of the Borgel screw case,  it was Mr. Wyler of the new Wyler Watch Co in 1928 who would  use the base of the Francois Borgel invention to
invent his own modern style of the one piece case design that would then find it's way into history and adoption by over 20 other brands whom
followed Wyler's designs.After the death of Francois Borgel in 1912, his daughter Louisa Borgel would continue the manufacture of Borgel
screw cases. In 1924, Borgel was purchased by Taubert & Fils who continued to use the then famous FB-key trademark.

 

LFHS18940301.jpg (219051 bytes)

Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases
. Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.

1-A-PAST-CONCORD.jpg (61824 bytes)

ABOVE ARE PICTURES OF THIS WATCH AND THE LAST
AND ONLY OTHER WWII CONCORD WE RESTORED

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OUR STORY

GSW INVESTED IN THIS AWESOME WWII SUB-SECONDS CONCORD DUE TO IT'S RARITY. DISTRIBUTED
IN THE USA BY FAMOUS J. E. CALDWELL & CO. FROM 1930 THROUGH 1943, IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST
EXPENSIVELY BUILT AND OFFERED TIME PIECES OF IT'S DAY.ONLY 12 WERE OFFERED ONLINE THAT
"WE ARE AWARE OF IN 10 YEARS. DURING THAT TEN YEARS, WE HAD OPPORTUNITY TO INVEST IN TWO. ONE
WAS THE CONVERTED SWEEP SECONDS CONCORD VERSION AND THE OTHER THIS ORIGINAL SUB-SECOND CONCORD
-- WHICH COST 135.00 BEFORE RESTORATION AND OVERHAUL WITH WARRANTY AND APPRAISAL .
THE SWEEP SECONDS HACK --- A SUB-SECOND MOVEMENT IS "FACTORY HACKED" TO FIT A SWEEP HAND --
IS A TOTAL "RESTORATION TO ORIGINAL CONDITION".

NOTE: THE RADIUM WAS DEAD IT HAS BEEN RE-ILLUMINATED WITH AF LUMINOVA

IMG_9736.JPG (43664 bytes)

RE-ILLUMINATED

IMG_9735.JPG (51229 bytes)

RESTORED TO MINT CONDITION

JUST GOOGLE J.E. CALDWELL & Co.
EVEN CHRISTIES AUCTION HOUSE OFFERS
J.E. CALDWELL & CO  ITEMS

IMG_9730.JPG (35355 bytes)

RESTORED TO ORIGINAL CONDITION

IMG_9722-001.JPG (42416 bytes)

  BEFORE

IMG_9731.JPG (42476 bytes)

RESTORED TO
ORIG NEW CONDITION
BALANCE
NEW MAIN SPRING
CLEANED LUBRICATED
AND
RE-ASSEMBLED

IMG_9740.JPG (34585 bytes)

THIS DIAL IS AWESOME

IMG_9746.JPG (24756 bytes)

THE CASE IS ALL STAINLESS/RUSTLESS STEEL
AND IS
NUMBERED AND HALLMARK

IMG_9747.JPG (31596 bytes)

THIS LOOK IS ABOUT CORRECT
AS FAR AS PATINA COLOR
AND
DETAIL
OF
CASE DIAL
AND
HANDS
WITHOUT
MAGNIFICATION
AWESOME

IMG_9744.JPG (28357 bytes)

THIS RARE EXCEPTIONAL TIME PIECE
IN ALL STAINLESS STEEL
DEMONSTRATES ITS QUALITY
FROM ITS ABSOLUTE ORIGINAL CRYSTAL
WHICH HAS A WONDERFUL LIGHT COLORATION
TO IT'S HALLMARK DOUBLE CASE

IMG_9748.JPG (30833 bytes)

IT'S ORIGINAL DEAD RADIUM DIAL RESTORED
OUTLINED NUMERALS
ORIGINAL RED 24 HR MILITARY RING
ORIGINAL BLACK STEEL
WITH
RE-ILLUMINATED WINDOWS HANDS
S ORIGINAL OUTER MINUTES CHAPTER RING

IMG_9745.JPG (29338 bytes)

THIS RARE EXCEPTIONAL TIME PIECE
HAS A TRULY UNIQUE BRACELET THAT WAS POPULAR
TO THOSE WHO COULD FIND ONE. WHILE NOT THE FIRST
STEEL "SPRING" CLIP STYLE WATCH BAND IN THE 1940'S
THIS DESIGN WOULD BE COPIED UNTIL THE MID 1960'S

IMG_9743.JPG (28652 bytes)

THE BONKLIP AND THIS SPRING CLIP
WERE UTILIZED ON MANY HI END WATCHES

IMG_9749.JPG (33458 bytes)

THIS BRACELET HAS SIMPLE SPRINGS PLACED
WITHIN THE LINKS. CONDITION IS EXCELLENT
MANY THAT SURVIVE USUALLY HAVE CLIPS MISSING
BROKEN OR WORN. THE SPRINGS ARE STRONG

IMG_9734.JPG (39888 bytes)

THE DIAL IS AWESOME
ROCK WANTED TO ADD THIS BABY TO HIS
COLLECTION NOTE THE CROWN .

IMG_9742.JPG (32902 bytes)

THIS STEM TUBE IS MILITARY STYLE
THICK AND WIDE

IMG_9732.JPG (32162 bytes)

WHILE WE HAVE SEEN SEVERAL DIFFERENT
CROWNS ON THE OTHER SIMILAR MODELS
THEY ALL LOOK THE SAME

IMG_9739.JPG (30452 bytes)

I LIKE TO CALL THIS A MUSHROOM CROWN
THIS CROWN ACTUALLY IS SEATED
WHEN PULLED LIGHTLY IT ONLY
MOVES A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE CASE
LEAVING THE CROWN STILL OVER THE TUBE

IMG_9729.JPG (36960 bytes)

28.5 X 36 MM

IS THE STANDARD MEN'S SIZE
OF THE PERIOD
THE A-11 WWII HACKING
MILITARY WATCH
IS
28 MM TO 29 MM

IF YOU EVER WANT ONE LET US KNOW
WE WILL PLACE ON EBAY FOR YOU

 

IMG_8572.JPG (89778 bytes)

YOU CAN SEE THE CASE BACK WAS MADE
TO UTILIZE A SPECIAL CASE WRENCH
WE  DETAILED THE CASE BACK
DUE TO THE FACT SOMEONE USED A TOOL
THAT DOES NOT FIT THE CASE BACK
AND HEAVILY SCRATCHED IT
ONLY A FEW LIGHT MARKS REMAIN

IMG_8583.JPG (109081 bytes)

ALL PARTS WERE DISASSEMBLED

IMG_8581.JPG (99903 bytes)

NOTE HOW THIS THE ENTIRE
TIME PIECE WITH BRACELET IS!

IMG_9755.JPG (52942 bytes)

J.E. CALDWELL & CO
SOLD HIGH END PRODUCTS
TO
HIGH END CLIENTS

THIS PARTICULAR MODEL WAS BUILT
BY CONCORD WATCH CO

IMG_9751.JPG (36020 bytes)

AWESOME

IMG_8540.JPG (147771 bytes)

Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases.
Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.

UNUSUAL FOR
1935 TO 1943
ARE NUMBERED
CASE BACKS & CASES

1-A-KEY-FB-HALLMARK.JPG (5086 bytes)
Borgel's FB KEY Trade Mark

FB
KEY
CONCORD WATCH CO
SWISS
STAINLESS STEEL
5667

IMG_8571.JPG (84974 bytes)

NOTE
AS WITH MANY LUXURY
WATCH MANUFACTURERS
THE CASE SERIAL #
IS REPEATED FROM CASE BACK
TO
BETWEEN THE LUGS OF THE CASE

5667

IMG_9757.JPG (45323 bytes)

MILITARY DUST/ANTIMAGNETIC SHIELDED

IMG_8582.JPG (105379 bytes)

MOVEMENT RING WITH LEDGE ALLOWS THE TOP
SHIELD TO SNAP INTO THIS MOVEMENT RING

IMG_8584.JPG (118585 bytes)


Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases.
Among the famous top high end watch companies they they worked with Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.

IMG_8568.JPG (112311 bytes)

ROCK ADDED A NEW
ORIGINAL STYLE GRAY SEAL

IMG_8542.JPG (166449 bytes)

ANOTHER CASE BACK SHOT
Borgel's FB KEY Trade Mark

Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases.
Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.

IMG_8547.JPG (160189 bytes)

STEEL CASE TOP SIDE BEFORE RESTORE

IMG_8548.JPG (159045 bytes)

STEEL CASE BOTTOM SIDE BEFORE RESTORE

IMG_8567.JPG (107888 bytes)

IN ITS TIME A FANTASTIC
ADDITION TO MILITARY WATCHES
AND
HIGH END WATCHES

IMG_8545.JPG (149212 bytes)

THIS IS THE TWO PART
"INNER CASE"

COMPOSED OF COPPER AND TIN
IT WAS A BRONZE SHIELD
THAT REPELLED MAGNETISM

IMG_8565.JPG (73085 bytes)

IT SEALED THE WATCH
WITH AN ADDITIONAL COVER

IMG_9725.JPG (29125 bytes)


FROM
MOISTURE AND DUST
IMG_9728.JPG (45719 bytes)

SIGNED OUTER CASE BACK

 

IMG_9750.JPG (47522 bytes)

GREAT ORIGINAL 1940 STEEL BAND

IMG_8546.JPG (148017 bytes)

HERE SHE IS SEPARATED

IMG_8557.JPG (142223 bytes)

NOTE THE WELL DESIGNED AND HAND   MANUFACTURED
15 JEWEL CONCORD MANUAL WIND MOVEMENT

IMG_8554.JPG (156267 bytes)

TOP VIEW
AFTER  OVERHAUL

IMG_8615.JPG (169038 bytes)

 

HERE THERE IS JUST ENOUGH SPACE
TO ADD THE INNER CASE SIDES AND COVER
NOTE THE BLACK U INNER LEFT SIDE BELOW CROWN
THAT IS NOTCH TO LINE UP
THE INNER CASE

IMG_8560.JPG (155080 bytes)

HERE WE SEE THE INNER CASE WALL INSTALLED
THE TOP SNAPS ONTO THE WALL
INSTALLED

SIGNED
CONCORD WATCH Co
SWISS
242W
FIFTEEN 15 JEWELS
UNADJUSTED
CXC
[CONCORD EXPORT CODE]