GSW PO BOX 2301
SUWANEE, GA, USA
30024

www.goldsmithworks.com
770.831.1257 - 1.800.438.6894

Date/Report Number:.120214:EGST-AF43-3322 Item: 1940 MOVADO GOLD CAPPED AND STAINLESS STEEL
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Description of item:  SERVICED RESTORED OVERHAULED 1940 MOVADO GOLD CAPPED AND STAINLESS STEEL 29.5 X 37MM W/O CROWN WITH GOLD FILLED WING TIP STRETCH BAND. Condition is fine to mint.

Estimated Retail Replacement Value $799.00


Reports are supplied at the request of the customer and it is for the customer's exclusive use. Reports express an opinion of the time of the examination of the jewelry. This report is for customers use only for the following two purposes, indicating estimated retail replacement value to obtain insurance coverage, or for the purpose of providing geological information. goldsmith Works does not guarantee that the appraisal valuation will result in a sale at the price. Estimated retail replacement value is arrived after analyses of what the approximate high retail cash asking price is for labor, materials, and design. These prices may be substantially higher than actual transaction or warranty with regards to any item described in the report, since jewelry grading is not an exact science, this  report represent the best opinion of the company. GoldSmith Works is in no case responsible for differences that occur by repeated grading by other experts in the field and/or use of other standards, norms, methods or criteria other than those used by GoldSmith Works. GoldSmith Works is expressly held harmless by customers including, but with out limitation for any claims or actions that may arise out of negligence in connection with the preparation of this laboratory report, or actions based upon the customer's use of the report. The information on the carat weight, clarity grade, color grade on the report is approximate due to the limitations in jewelry grading. The item was tested, graded, and examined under 10x magnification using the techniques and equipment available to GoldSmith Works, including fully corrected triplet loupe, binocular microscope, master color comparison guides, diamond color comparison tools, electronic carat balance, non-contact optical measuring device, and ancillary instruments necessary at the time of Exam

 

 

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SERVICED
RESTORED
OVERHAULED

1940
MOVADO

GOLD CAPPED
AND
  STAINLESS STEEL

29.5 X 37

MM
W/O CROWN

WITH

GOLD FILLED
WING TIP

STRETCH BAND



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A HISTORY OF THE MILITARY WATCH & WWII

WORLD WAR TWO EXPENSIVE MILITARY WRIST WATCHES AVERAGED  27 TO 29 MM IN SIZE.. TO OWN A TRULY FIRST CLASS RESTORE EXPECT THAT THE SIZE WILL BE AN AVERAGE OF 28 TO 29 MM-WITH A FEW LARGER AT 30 MM AND A RARE FEW AT 31 MM

CONCORD-CALDWELL-28MM.JPG (174306 bytes)
CALDWELL-28MM

The Caldwell is an English watch utilizing Swiss brands as its base, including the Concord.   Most new collectors have no idea that England at one time had an exclusive Watch Makers Row.

CROYDON-30MM.JPG (153378 bytes)
CROYDON-30MM

The Croydon at 30mm was one of the few WWII watches of this size after the war began with its limited materials. Iron, Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Rubber, Brass and other strategic metals, compounds and supplies.

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CONCORD 28MM

The Concord was of similar size with the expensive killer dial look of the WWII era top models 28mm

USS Corvina SS-226

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GALLET-30MM

The oldest watch company GALLET also joined the crew at 30mm .
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MOVADO MILITARY  29.5 MM

Color Photographed B-17E in Flight.jpg

Movado had it both ways. The first watches issued were as this one at 29.5 mm case watch for fliers before the war ended they offered bum,pers at 31mm. t

MoyaleEastAfrica1941.JPG

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GALLET-RACINE-30MM

The oldest watch company GALLET introduced nephews Racines at 30 mm.


OMEGA-30MM

Omega took a square movement placed it in a round case.30mm

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PARA-KM + PANZER-28-26MM

The PARA  was an absolute favorite of both German Officer & Non-Com 24-29mm

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MIDO-29MM

File:USS Princeton (CVL-23) 1944 10 24 1.jpg

. In WWII the MIDO MULTIFORT was extremely popula at 28 to 29mm


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IMPERIAL-28MM

Free French Forces organized after the fall of France proper. ave 27 - 28mm

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WYLER-101SR-29MM

WWII Wyler, were 26 tyo 29 mm

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ORIS-29MM.JPG (118216 bytes)
ORIS-29MM

In 1939 this Oris 29mm

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MINERVA-30MM

This Minerva watches 26 to 31 mm.

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SEIKOSHA 28MM
The Japanese 24 to 26mm
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SEIKO NATION  26-28MM

While Japan provided SEIKOSHA made & Hybrid [Japan Case/Dial Swiss Movement]  watches, timers, ships watches and chronographs in limited numbers

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WYLER PILOT 27MM

Only two WWII Italian Air force Macchi-202 ‘s exist in museums today. This Italian Pilot may have invested in a “Wyler Pilot ”

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WYLER GERMAN MKT 27MM
German Born, Paul Wyler,  1936 germab wyler

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GRUEN BUMPER 31MM

Gruen radium dialed bumper automatic 1944/45. another winner. this one at 31mm. if it were not a bumper it would be 29mm.

 

BELOW ARE PROOF THAT MILITARY WATCHES WERE MADE
AND SOLD DIRECTLY TO THE SOLDIER AND OFFICER
AS LONG AS THE SOLDIER OR OFFICER HAD THE CASH
AND AS LONG AS WATCHES WERE AVAILABLE 

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NOTE THE NAVAL OR MILITARY SERVICE

LEATHER-MILITARY-WATCH-TRENCH-STRAP.jpg (301139 bytes)

WWI & THIS STORE IS SELLING THOUSANDS
OF 4 DOLLAR MILITARY WATCHES
AND KITCHENER WIDE LEATHER WIDE CUFF
STYLE STRAPS 10 CENTS
EACH

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Many companies create their names based on many different reasons. Movado kept it simple. “ALWAYS IN MOTION” was their name.

“Always In Motion” in Esperanto = Movado

Movado was started  by Achille Ditisheimin 1881 in La Chaux-de-faunds, Switzerland. The Movado specialty was creating watches by hand and by   1899 Movado was awarded six first-class Official Rating Certificates in their class, and a Silver Medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris would follow the following year.

24 years later, Movado was famous for it’s watch design and function and soon there after, it’s sweep of the 1910 Grand Prix Exhibitions in Paris, Rome, Brussels and Rio de Janeiro for their introduction of 8 ligne wristwatch movements.

1912 began with the Movado Polyplan watch; a watch that remains today highly sought after.

In 1944,  Movado seized upon the John Harwood patented BUMPER AUTOMATIC and altered it to include 17 jewels, better spring returns, a much advanced rotor design and center sweeps seconds hand and shock system AND IN 1945 introduced it as their first automatic movement called the “TEMPOMATIC”.

In 1947, American designer Nathan George Horwitt created the first Museum Watch. It featured an uncluttered dial, with a simple gold dot marker at the 12:00 position. Movado would team up to produce the Museum Watch and even worked with Andy Warhol in the creation of one-of-a-kind limited edition watches.

In the fifties and sixties watches like the KINGMATIC and others kept the company going until the quartz took over.

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AWESOME FULL FEATURE RADIUM DIAL
RESTORED AND RE-ILLUMINATED

TRIPLE LINED DIAL
OUTER SWEEP SECONDS RING
  METALLIC GOLD AND BLACK SUB RING
OUTLINED RAISED NUMERALS

ONCE RADIUM
NOW LUMINOVA

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NOTE THE RE-ILLUMINATED FINISH

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A WONDERFUL CASE

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THE COST WOULD HAVE PLACED THIS
MOVADO OUT OF THE REACH OF 80% OF THE POPULATION

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LUGS ARE TIP TOP

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GO THROUGH LUGS

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NOTE THICKNESS OF PERMANENT GOLD BEZEL/LUG CAP

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NOTICE THE VINTAGE CLASSIC MOVADO DIAL

ON 7.5 WRIST

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SIGNED A B WELDER
CINCINNATI

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AWESOME

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LOVE THIS WING TIP BAND

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NOTICE CASE IS NUMBERED

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STEEL LUGS WITH GOLD CAP ALLOWS THE USE
OF THESE GOLD FILLED STEEL BANDS
WITHOUT WEARING

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MOVADO FACTORIES

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CASE BACK SIGNED
FB KEY PATENT
TAUBERT & FILS

Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva based case makers and specialists in the manufacture of high quality dirt and moisture-resistant cases. The company’s case stamp was F.B. within a cartouche.

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Borgel's FB KEY Trade Mark

 

Francois Borgel
Francois Borgel
would set up shop in 1887 in Geneva, Switzerland. His registered trademark ["marque de fabrique"] was created using his initials [FB] with a Geneva key.

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REGISTRATION

In October of 1891, Francois would patent his famous and eponymous watch case design. His   Swiss "Brevet" [Patent] was number 4001. Francois would also patent his design in England under Patent number 20,422.

 

 

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GENEVA COAT ARMS

The Borgel case was an early attempt to make wrist watches resistant to dust and moisture. It had a one piece case with no separate back opening. The movement was mounted in a threaded carrier ring attached to the bezel, and this assembly screws into the one piece case from the front.

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Though Longines, The International Watch Co. of Schaffhausen (IWC) , and other lesser known Swiss watch manufacturers were early adopters of the Borgel screw case,  it was Mr. Wyler of the new Wyler Watch Co in 1928 who would  use the base of the Francois Borgel invention to invent his own modern style of the one piece case design that would then find it's way into history and adoption by over 20 other brands whom followed Wyler's designs.

After the death of Francois Borgel in 1912, his daughter Louisa Borgel would continue the manufacture of Borgel screw cases.

In 1924, Borgel was purchased by Taubert & Fils who continued to use the then famous FB-key trademark.

 

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Taubert & Fils was one of the finest Geneva-based case makers and specialized in water-resistant cases. Among the famous top high end watch companies they built cases for were Patek Philippe, Movado, Vacheron Constantin and Concord.

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A CLASSIC CASE WITHIN A CASE SYSTEM
ON MANY ORD DEP US MIL WATCHES
ALSO ON MANY CONCORD TO MOVADO
WWII HIGH END
PROTECTED MOVEMENT FROM DUST MOISTURE
AND WAS ANTI MAGNETIC BY NATURE OF IT'S ALLOY


S
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LIKE MOST THIS BABY IS TWO PART

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HERE WITH TOP CAP OFF
NOTE NIPPLE IN CENTER
WHEN STEEL SCREW DOWN OUTER CASE BACK
IS TIGHTENED IT CONTACTS THE NIPPLE
FORCING THE TOP INTO THE SIDE RAIL
AND DOWN TO DIAL

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NOTE THE ACTUAL METALLIC GOLD RING
RESTORATION TO PERFECTION


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Movado

NOTE
THIS MOVEMENT IS A GRAND DADDY
15 JEWELS PLACES IT IN 1940 + AND -
THE HACKED WHEEL RUNNING A
DIRECT CENTER SEEPS STAFF WITHOUT BRIDGE
   PLACES IT IN 1940 + AND -
THOUGH IT DOES NOT LOOK LIKE A SHOCK SYSTEM
IT HAS A BASIC SHOCK SYSTEM
    PLACES IT IN 1940 + AND -
FINALLY THE LOCKS ON RATCHET AND CROWN WHEEL
PLACES IT IN 1940 + AND -

Features
manual wind
sweep second


Data
10.25'
15 jewels
f = 18000 A/h

power reserve 43h

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 CENTER SWEEP

By 1942, the sweep second hand watch had became “the” watch. Two of the major reasons were the Government issued U.S.A. A-11 hacking sweep seconds pilots watch and the sweep seconds watches in demand by Doctors, Medics and Nurses . The sweep second watch simply made the watch more than an instrument to “tell time”….

The sub-second style dial, with a tiny second hand rotating around a tiny seconds register at the 6 position, was difficult to utilize for timing events. In most cases it was ignored. On the other hand, a sweep second hand could be used to time events, mark events, and was easier to read .

THE DESIGN

So, what did manufacturers do?   FROM 1930 THROUGH 1948 They simply placed a hollow canon pinion that allowed a wheeled center shaft to protrude through the dial, mounted a second hand to it, and ran the combo with the very sub-seconds wheel they were eliminating…

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Instead of the drive train turning the dial protruding shaft/pinion at 6 position connected to the tiny second hand, they mounted a large brass/alloy wheel on the opposite side of the shaft that now protruded through the bridge. That wheel turned a wheel on top of a NEW center “shaft’ held in position be a new this jeweled bridge that went through a new HOLLOW center cannon pinion in the center of the movement that then protruded through the center of the dial where a new long ***sweep second hand attached.

***sweep second hand
technically, “sweep” usually means rotating round without TICKS. In other words, smoothly rather than “ticking” by second round. In this write up, we are using sweep in a general way to better explain our history and science. It made no difference whether it was ticks or moves smooth, the idea being that one had a large second hand that went round in tune with the movement and the chapter ring so one could count, time & now even synchronize.


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CONDITION
- EXCELLENT- 
WATCH WINDS SETS & KEEPS TIME
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