3.6 Carat Ruby & 18K Yellow Gold Ring

The hardest part of making this ring was setting the ruby.

I did not want a bezel, it would make the ring too masculine-- and I was worried that a hard knock against a table or some other object might harm the stone.

Basket mounts are protected from Shock by the collapse of the mount if it is struck against a hard object.

With a SOLID GOLD ring like the one above, the stone sits against the solid weight of the mount. A straight knock against a hard object  could crack the stone, so I made two ROSE GOLD BEADS to protect and hold the stone in the ring and to add to the look of the piece .

The stone socket was first finely hand ground so the ruby would seat properly. This was the hardest of the work because it is a deep stone and the maximum height available to keep the ring balanced meant the very girdle of the stone was even with the top of the ring.

The rose gold was mixed and the beads shaped right on the bench.

There is an abundance of small detail performed first through hand carving the wax (NOT cut or designed in cadcam) then additional hand carving with files and sandpaper to produce the fine shape and balance of the ring.

The finish was accomplished by utilizing light machine tumbling with porcelain to take off roughness, then fine PUMICE mixed with water and applied by cotton rag was performed to keep the strong top-side detail crisp and sharp.

There was NO MOTOR BUFFING above the shank lines.

I used a flex shaft and rouge to luster the inside and lower shank and to eliminate the rough lines from the detailing I performed on the shank.

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